Walking in the tea plantations of Sri Lanka

The tea plantations are one of the most famous symbols of Sri Lanka and a highlight for most visitors. Easily accessible as the main train line from Colombo to Badulla passes through numerous plantations, starting mainly after Hatton train station (the jump-off point for visiting Adam´s Peak).

One of the great cultural walks in Sri Lanka is the +800 m walk up to Lipton´s seat, starting out from Dambatenne tea factory, a 45 min tuk-tuk ride from Haputale. Dambatenne was the original factory of tea-magnate Sir Thomas Lipton, and it is said that he often walked to the point now called Lipton´s seat to survey his empire. It takes around 2 hours to walk the 7 km and 800+ meters ascent up to the seat from Dambatenne tea factory, all the way through tea plantations on a paved road.

Tea pluckers weighing tea leaves at a weighing station
Tea pluckers weighing tea leaves at a weighing station

The tea-pluckers are Tamil women. They live in separate Tamil villages, located close the tea plantations, easily distinguished by prominent hindu temples. Employed by the Dambatenne Estate, they are payed 600 Rupees (around 4 US dollars) per day for a quota of 18 kg tea leaves. Whenever the bag on their backs is full, they empty it at a weighing station. If the 18 kg quota is not reached, their salary is reduced according to a specific algorithm.

Tea plantations in Ella
View over tea plantations in Ella

It has been well documented that the Tamil tea-pluckers are among the poorest in Sri Lanka. Apart from tea-plucking being hard work, they are frequently discriminated against and the Tamil communities are not integrated into the Sri Lankan communities. My tuk-tuk drivers mother used to be a tea-plucker, but was able to give it up as her children could provide sufficient income for the household. He told me how she would complain from constant back-pain as well as chronic skin problems, not to mention the ubiquitous leeches present in the often wet tea-fields.

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