Day 15-21: Muktinath-Kagbeni-Marpha-Ghasa-Tatopani-Ghorepani-Naya Pul
Buses ply the dirt road continuously from Jomsom to Tatopani and most finish their hike at Jomsom. For walkers, the choice is between walking the dirt road or the alternative (longer) NAAT trails down the Valley, or change between the two as I did. As with Odar Village at the other side of Thorung La, a detour via Titigaon and Titi lake brings you slightly off the beaten track as well.
From Tatopani, the dirt road is left behind and the trail continues +1500 meter up through atmospheric villages to Ghorepani and Poon Hill. The descent to Birethanti (and Naya Pul) is uncomplicated but endless.
As an alternative way to descend the Annapurna Circuit, mountain bike outfitters propose rent of bikes as well as luggage transport from Muktinath to Tatopani.
- Marpha – a wonderful, white village full of apples.
- The hot springs of Tatopani, though interesting the concrete setting is less than inspiring.
- Walking through atmospheric villages from Tatopani to Ghorepani.
- Poon hill with views of Dhaulagiri and Annapura I.
- The huge snake that I almost stepped on just after sunset near Birethanti.
- The endless carved steps on the descent from Ghorepani.