Day Thirteen: Villarmentero de Campos-Ledigos,
32,82 km, asc/desc 106/81m, 8:40h
September 24th, 2016
- The longest flat stretch of the Camino :17 km, with no villages or supplies apart from a mobile refreshment place.
- For hiking trips I find hiking poles to be essential. Not for the camino as it is generally very flat.
- About 90% of the people on the trail use hiking poles. However, of on the hundreds of people I have seen with poles, only two used them correctly, which means they put their force on the stick.
- My main physical problem was pain in the feet as the surface is so hard with very little variation, no matter which stage of the walk. Only the walks up to O´Cebreiro and the Iron Cross saw variations in the surface.
- I had no blisters at any time, probably because I just returned from a month hiking in Norway before embarking on the Camino and my hiking boots are well worn in.
- The Monasterio San Zoilo in Carrion de los Condes is now a luxury hotel and looks wonderful.
Day Fourteen: Ledigos-El Burgo Ranero
33,52 km, asc/desc 174/202m, 9:07h
September 25th, 2016
- At this point I thought I may complete the Camino in about 25 days.
- When people on the trail heard this they would ask why I rushed? However, I do not rush. I like walking. I walk at a steady pace all day. Hundreds of pilgrims rush by me every morning and I pass them at lunchtime when they queue exhausted outside the next auberge.
- I had not succeeded booking anything for El Burgo Ranero, so I was lucky to get a bed in a four-person bedroom in a private albergue upon arrival.
- At the albergue I met a man who brought an anti-snoring device. It worked. Perhaps an idea for the obscure amount of people snoring in the refuges and ruining others sleep?
- I passed the halfway point in Sahagun.
- There are many remnants of the knights templar around this region.
Day Fifteen: El Burgo Ranero-Léon
37,48 km, asc/desc 164/175m, 10:25h
September 26th, 2016
- Woke up at 7:30 to find the alberuge already completely empty.
- I finished the last episode (no 47) of the podcast “Kongerækken” – a List of the Danish Kings and Queens.
- I got bed bugs in the the albergue in El Burgo Ranero. Until now I slept in three refuges and got bitten by bed bugs in two of them despite using my own sleeping bag..
- The approach to Léon has a bad reputation: However it is not worse than the approach to the other big cities.
- I did not bring at tent, but if I were to walk again I would: There are places to discreetly pitch a tent everywhere and it alleviates all the logistic stress of booking accommodation. I did meet a handful of people camping.
Day 16: Léon-Hospital de Orbigo
32,49 km, asc/desc 180/164m, 9:46h
September 27th, 2016
- I spend the entire morning in Léon visiting the Cathedral and walking around in the old city.
- After Léon there are more people on the Camino, however I still don´t meet anyone after 3 pm.
- I walked right next to major road all day – so much noise that it was impossible to listen to podcasts. I´d recommend taking the slighter longer alternative road to Hospital de Orbigo.
- While resting I was approached by another “Camino Police” walker who lectured me about the wrong shoes I was wearing.
The complete photogallery of this day is available on flickr.
This post is part of the Camino de Santiago in 24 days series.