Cathedral in Léon

Camino de Santiago day 13-16

Day Thirteen: Villarmentero de Campos-Ledigos,
32,82 km, asc/desc 106/81m, 8:40h
September 24th, 2016

  • The longest flat stretch of the Camino :17 km, with no villages or supplies apart from a mobile refreshment place.
  • For hiking trips I find hiking poles to be essential. Not for the camino as it is generally very flat.
  • About 90% of the people on the trail use hiking poles. However, of on the hundreds of people I have seen with poles, only two used them correctly, which means they put their force on the stick.
  • My main physical problem was pain in the feet as the surface is so hard with very little variation, no matter which stage of the walk. Only the walks up to O´Cebreiro and the Iron Cross saw  variations in the surface.
  • I had no blisters at any time, probably because I just returned from a month hiking in Norway before embarking on the Camino and my hiking boots are well worn in.
  • The Monasterio San Zoilo in Carrion de los Condes is now a luxury hotel and looks wonderful.

    On the road again
    On the road again

The complete photogallery of this day is available on flickr.

Day Fourteen: Ledigos-El Burgo Ranero
33,52 km, asc/desc 174/202m, 9:07h
September 25th, 2016

  • At this point I thought I may complete the Camino in about 25 days.
  • When people on the trail heard this they would ask why I rushed? However, I do not rush. I like walking. I walk at a steady pace all day. Hundreds of pilgrims rush by me every morning and I pass them at lunchtime when they queue exhausted outside the next auberge.
  • I had not succeeded booking anything for El Burgo Ranero, so I was lucky to get a bed in a four-person bedroom in a private albergue upon arrival.
  • At the albergue I met a man who brought an anti-snoring device. It worked. Perhaps an idea for the obscure  amount of people snoring in the refuges and ruining others sleep?
  • I passed the halfway point  in Sahagun.
  • There are many remnants of the knights templar around this region.

    Knights Templar
    Knights Templar

The complete photogallery of this day is available on flickr.

Day Fifteen: El Burgo Ranero-Léon
37,48 km, asc/desc 164/175m, 10:25h
September 26th, 2016

  • Woke up at 7:30 to find the alberuge already completely empty.
  • I finished the last episode (no 47) of the podcast “Kongerækken” – a List of the Danish Kings and Queens.
  • I got bed bugs in the the albergue in El Burgo Ranero. Until now I slept in three refuges and got bitten by bed bugs in two of them despite using my own sleeping bag..
  • The approach to Léon has a bad reputation: However it is not worse than the approach to the other big cities.
  • I did not bring at tent, but if I were to walk again I would: There are places to discreetly pitch a tent everywhere and it alleviates all the logistic stress of booking accommodation. I did meet a handful of people camping.

    On the way to Léon
    On the way to Léon

The complete photogallery of this day is available on flickr.

Day 16: Léon-Hospital de Orbigo
32,49 km, asc/desc 180/164m, 9:46h
September 27th, 2016

  • I spend the entire morning in Léon visiting the Cathedral and walking around in the old city.
  • After Léon there are more people on the Camino, however I still don´t meet anyone after 3 pm.
  • I walked right next to major road all day – so much noise that it was impossible to listen to podcasts. I´d recommend taking the slighter longer alternative road to Hospital de Orbigo.
  • While resting I was approached by another “Camino Police” walker who lectured me about the wrong shoes I was wearing.

    The Parador in Léon
    The Parador in Léon

The complete photogallery of this day is available on flickr.
This post is part of the Camino de Santiago in 24 days series.

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