From Besi Sahar to Chame

Annapurna Circuit Itinerary day 1-5:
Besi Sahar-Khudi -Syange-Tal-Odar Village-Chame

  • 8 am: Arriving in Kathmandu Airport directly from Denmark.
  • 9 am: Getting the TIMS permits and National Park Fees in Kathmandu.
  • 11 am: Hiring a car as the buses to Besi Sahar had left. In fact I had hired an old minibus, where I slept in the back while other people got on board.
  • 6pm: Arriving in Besi Sahar at 6 pm and starting the Annapurna Circuit.
  • 8 pm: Finally in Khudi. It is pitch dark. The batteries for my head-lamp are not working.
  • I intended to walk the classical Annapurna Circuit – from Besi Sahar to Naya Pul, including Tilicho Lake, approximately 250 km.
  • Roads are continually being constructed and it is now possible to hire a jeep all the way to Manang now, and many drive up to Chame and start from there.
  • Walking up, on quite a few stretches you are obliged to follow the dirt jeep track, however there are quite a few alternate trails up the valley avoiding the road.
  • The great advantage  walking from Besi Sahar is experiencing the transition between the low tropical zones and the high alpine landshapes:
  • The villages of the lower country are very atmospheric and full of culture and life.
  • The downside apart from the dirt roads is all the construction going on mainly by Chinese companies, including a major dam on the Marsyandi Kola.
  • On one side obviously improved infrastructure is essential for the development of these very poor communities. On the other side, this development makes the area less appealing to hikers and the local tea house owners have difficult times, and have to re-think their businesses.
  • I was the only person staying in most of the lodges and in several villages I was the only guest as well.

    Rainbow Restaurant an Lodge, Ghermu
              Rainbow Restaurant and Lodge, Ghermu

Highlights of the lower part of the Annapurna Circuit:

  • The suspension brige over Marsyangi Kola to Syange.
  • Bahundanda hilltop village.
  • Tal, the glacier-carved valley and the traditional pumpkin dishes.
  • Odar, a small home-stay village off the main track.
  • Rainbow Restaurant and Lodge in Ghermu with great views over the Marsyangdi Kola to a waterfall.

Click for photo gallery of the lower part of the Annapurna Circuit on flickr.

This post is part of the series on the Annapurna Circuit walked in October 2015.

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