Adam´s Peak via Dalhousie and Ratnapura

Named Adam´s Peak since this was allegedly the first place of earth on which Adam sat his foot after being thrown out of heaven, this is probably the major pilgrimage site in Sri Lanka. The season runs from poya day (full-moon) in December and until May. During this time hundreds of pilgrims ascend the more 5000 steps through the night passing hundreds of teashops and temples on the way, arriving at Adam´s Peak at 2243 meter in time for sunset. Most arrive at the top well before sunset and sleep on mats on a concrete floor inside a cave right next to the top temple. This is a walk where you are never alone.

Ascent through the night towards Adam´s Peak
Ascent through the night towards Adam´s Peak

The closest village is Dalhousie, about an with tuk-tuk  from  Hatton on the main Colombo-Badulla train line. Most tourists start the ascent from their Dalhousie guesthouse at around 2 am and return by the same way after sunrise.

However, to avoid backtracking, and since there are in fact two ways up the Peak (from Dalhousie and Ratnapura), I decided to descend to Ratnapura, thus I bringing my entire backpack with me. This descent, though technically very easy,  is really tough on the knees: 1700 meters straight descent on steps.  I started out from my guesthouse in Dalhousie a little before 3 am arriving at the top (with luggage) around 6:30, including several stops at temples, tea-shops etc. on the way. A wonderfully atmospheric experience with myriads of people, shops and glittering statues as well as all kinds of paraphernalia. At the top, I arrived right on time for the puja, again a very atmospheric experience with fabulous views.

Adam´s Peak at sunrise
View from Adam´s Peak at sunrise

By descending the steps towards Ratnapura I immediately left the tourist-track (though tourists make up less than 1% of those ascending Adam´s Peak) and for the next five hours I met nobody except a couple of locals. There are tea-shops on the Ratnapura route as well, however it is significantly longer (both in terms of length in km and descent, as Ratnapura is lower-lying than Dalhouse) than the track from Dalhouse. It passes through wonderful forests, though the eternal steps equal anything I have experienced in Nepal. Finally down (the trail does not end in Ratnapura itself, but about 40 km outside), I took a tuk-tuk to Ratnapura bus station and then a local bus down to Galle on the Coast.

Pilgrims on their way up Adam´s Peak
Pilgrims on their way up Adam´s Peak

Walking in the tea plantations of Sri Lanka

The tea plantations are one of the most famous symbols of Sri Lanka and a highlight for most visitors. Easily accessible as the main train line from Colombo to Badulla passes through numerous plantations, starting mainly after Hatton train station (the jump-off point for visiting Adam´s Peak).

One of the great cultural walks in Sri Lanka is the +800 m walk up to Lipton´s seat, starting out from Dambatenne tea factory, a 45 min tuk-tuk ride from Haputale. Dambatenne was the original factory of tea-magnate Sir Thomas Lipton, and it is said that he often walked to the point now called Lipton´s seat to survey his empire. It takes around 2 hours to walk the 7 km and 800+ meters ascent up to the seat from Dambatenne tea factory, all the way through tea plantations on a paved road.

Tea pluckers weighing tea leaves at a weighing station
Tea pluckers weighing tea leaves at a weighing station

The tea-pluckers are Tamil women. They live in separate Tamil villages, located close the tea plantations, easily distinguished by prominent hindu temples. Employed by the Dambatenne Estate, they are payed 600 Rupees (around 4 US dollars) per day for a quota of 18 kg tea leaves. Whenever the bag on their backs is full, they empty it at a weighing station. If the 18 kg quota is not reached, their salary is reduced according to a specific algorithm.

Tea plantations in Ella
View over tea plantations in Ella

It has been well documented that the Tamil tea-pluckers are among the poorest in Sri Lanka. Apart from tea-plucking being hard work, they are frequently discriminated against and the Tamil communities are not integrated into the Sri Lankan communities. My tuk-tuk drivers mother used to be a tea-plucker, but was able to give it up as her children could provide sufficient income for the household. He told me how she would complain from constant back-pain as well as chronic skin problems, not to mention the ubiquitous leeches present in the often wet tea-fields.